The textiles of the future are “bio-based”. This is the conviction behind the BIOTEXFUTURE Innovation Space – a concept funded by the German Federal Ministry of Education and Research as part of the transformation to a bio-based economy. A central role in this innovation space is played by the German “Silicon Valley of textile research,” which is home to the Institute of Textile Technology at RWTH Aachen University (ITA) at one of Europe’s leading locations for textile research. As part of the Innovation Space, the German government is supporting leading research teams in the development of sustainable biobased textiles.
Rapid transfer from research to real life
To keep the gap between basic research and implementation in the real economy as small as possible from the start, industrial companies from the relevant sectors are also involved in this innovation space concept. In addition, the project is accompanied by the Chair of Technology and Organizational Sociology (STO) at RWTH Aachen University to ensure that consumers are also involved during the implementation of these innovative technologies. The goal of BIOTEXFUTURE is to rapidly transfer basic research into real life.
BIOTEXFUTURE, with its numerous projects, focuses on the conversion of the textile value chain and the individual manufacturing processes from petroleum-based to bio-based. Experts from science and industry have clearly defined the research priorities for this, and there is also an exchange between the research teams of the various projects in order to identify possible synergies between the projects at an early stage.
Currently, the textile industry leaves a very clear ecological footprint. Every year, more than 120 million tons of textile fibers are processed worldwide, of which about 70 percent are petroleum-based. “We are convinced that we can pave the way for innovation in the textile industry through groundbreaking research. Some of this research is still at an early stage today, but it will be crucial tomorrow,” says Prof. Dr. Thomas Gries, the head of the Institute of Textile Technology Aachen (ITA).
The production of synthetic materials from petroleum causes a variety of environmental, social and economic problems. These include growing piles of waste and high CO2 emissions, the proliferation of potentially mutagenic and non-degradable chemical pollutants, air, soil and water pollution, etc. Therefore, a fundamental industrial turnaround is required. The starting point for this is to be created in this project with strong and very committed partner organizations.
Adidas supports research
BIOTEXFUTURE pursues a holistic approach that focuses on the entire textile value chain, including its diverse manufacturing processes. This is reflected in the various technological research areas as well as in the accompanying socio-economic research. BIOTEXFUTURE differs from other funding formats in its centralized program management with a dedicated team that proactively manages the innovation space. This project design also convinced industry partner Adidas to participate in BIOTEXFUTURE: “Adidas has been working on the sustainable transformation of its product range for many years,” said Jan Hill, Senior Director Technology Innovation at Adidas. “By 2025, we want 90 percent of all items to be sustainable. To achieve this, we need close cooperation between industry and research and rapid implementation of the results in practice. In this way, we create very concrete, tangible improvements together with our research partners.”
Achieving BIOTEXFUTURE’s goals requires a biobased raw material base for plastics that is holistically sustainable; application in the textile industry, starting with biopolymer development and ending with textile manufacturing; and overall societal transformation towards a bioeconomy from a social and economic perspective.
ALGAETEX: A “green” fabric for athletic apparel and shoes
A number of projects are currently being implemented, including ALGAETEX – biopolymers derived from algae for use in textiles, specifically in clothing and footwear. Project partners are Adidas AG, Fraunhofer IGB, Institute for Textile Technology at RWTH Aachen University and the University of Bayreuth.
Currently, the scientists of the ALGAETEX project have extracted about 200g of biopolymers from algae as part of the BIOTEXFUTURE research. That doesn’t sound like much, but it’s a significant yield for lab-scale experiments, with the goal of two to three kilograms by the end of the project cycle. The ingredients of the algae polymers are specific strains of algae, LED light, specific gases, and nutrients. The algae are cultivated in photobioreactors. The algae polymers are very robust and comparable to petroleum-based polyamides. Currently, the polymer can be processed into a textile surface with 60 percent algae content, but in the future, there is also the potential to increase this content to 100 percent. In addition to research on the algae-based biopolymers themselves, the ALGAETEX team is also looking into the possibilities of recycling. The team is very optimistic that it will be able to produce recyclable products. The team plans to bring an algae T-shirt or an algae sports shoe to market by 2030 as a result of its research. The tenor of the researchers is, “This project has a lot of potential!”
ALGAETEX at Munich Fabric Start
The ALGAETEX project will be presented to the public at the Munich Fabric Start textile show from July 18 to 20 at Munich’s MOC using a sports shoe (see picture below) by Adidas as the first ALGAETEX demonstrator.
