A French collective called Une Autre Mode Est Possible (A Different Fashion Is Possible, or UAMEP) – which, in light of “climatic and social emergencies,” encourages an “artistic and low-tech” approach to fashion design – has started a petition to stop Shein’s establishment at the BHV Marais department store (in central Paris) or elsewhere in France. At press time the petition was nearing 100,800 signatures.
As we’ve reported, Shein has struck a deal with Société des Grands Magasins (SGM), which owns both the BHV in question and several stores operating under the Galeries Lafayette banner. The fast-fashion brand is due to arrive in the French capital in early November. According to Modaes, it will be setting up shop on some 10,700 square feet of the BHV’s sixth floor.
Banque des Territoires sees a “breach of confidence”
On Oct. 8, the Banque des Territoires, pulled out of negotiations with SGM to acquire the building of the BHV Marais, which is still owned by Galeries Lafayette. According to Localtis, an in-house press organ quoting the bank, Shein’s “business model does not reflect the values or operating principles of the Banque des Territoires.” The bank learned of the Shein deal “through the press, with no advance information,” and considers it a “breach of confidence” between it and SGM.
The Banque des Territoires has held the assets of the BHV Marais since 2023. It is a part the Caisse des Dépôts, a public financial institution unique to France that manages public funds.
But the BHV Marais has other troubles to contend with, like non-shipment from suppliers upset over non-payment. SGM President Frédéric Merlin told BFM Business last month that the store had been losing €15 million a year for decades, although posting a profit of €400,000 on July 30, 2024. And several brands, objecting to Shein or otherwise fed up with management, are leaving the store. (None are major sports brands.)
The Paris deputy mayor started a separate petition against Shein
The business with Shein has taken on a political dimension as well. The Deputy Mayor of Paris, Emmanuel Grégoire, has started a separate petition (“No Shein at the BHV!”), which cites among other things suspicions that Shein has been involved in forced labor in the Chinese province of Xinjiang. “The economy de predation,” it reads, “is not the solution to the problems of local commerce and the Grands Magasins [traditional department stores].” The other initial signatories are Yann Rivoallan, Director of the Fédération Française du Prêt-à-Porter Féminin; Maëva Bessis, Director of La Caserne (an “accelerator” for the fashion industry’s ecological transition); and Dounia Wone, Chief Impact Officer at the Vestiaire Collective (a marketplace for used fashion apparel).
Grégoire’s petition, like UAMEP’s, was started on Oct. 2. At press time it had about 3,100 signatures.
France amended (linked material in French) its Anti-Waste Law for a Circular Economy (AGEC Law) to curb fast-fashion in June.
